Las Terrenas: The proof is in the pictures

Hi all! Some of you have asked for some more information about the “Off the Beaten Path” locations we’ve posted pictures of, so here we go with a little less personal, and a little more information!

Las Terrenas is an incredibly beautiful spot in the Dominican Republic that is lesser known to many Caribbean travelers. If you want to get away from the overwhelmingly tourist-y resorts but eating and drinking the same, I strongly suggest heading to the peninsula, you won’t be disappointed.

Airbnb and VRBO housing is incredibly inexpensive and you can get around to restaurants, stores, the grocery, etc all walking distance or ATV which are cheaply rented from any number of places. There are plenty of people who speak English and here you can find that real Caribbean-style living that can’t be replicated at a resort. Restaurant prices vary for a family of four you can get food and drink anywhere from USD$ 50 and up, including drink. Food and produce is incredibly cheap and accessible here at the local grocery store. EVERYONE is willing to help you and the kindness of the people here will leave you speechless.

The sunset on the beach is easily the best part. The beaches are not crowded because it is a lesser known location so on any given day you may have an entire stretch of beach to yourself. Food and drink on the beach is also cheap; as a reference point you can get a large Pina Colada with fresh coconut and pineapple (cut by a machete in a little bodega playing Salsa music– it’s like a movie, really) for USD$ 3.50.

Did I mention the restaurants and houses are mostly dog-friendly?

All in all, Las Terrenas is not only beauty, but also functionality. It is cheap, fun, and quiet with opportunity for lots of nightlife, exploration, and relaxation should that be what your traveling heart seeks. Feel free to contact me if you have any questions or interest about getting to this side of the island, you truly won’t be disappointed.

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This is the only one that is not my picture, but this is an idea of what the beach looks like from one of many restaurants (lasterrenas-live.com)

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Boca Chica and Bocana

Two weekends ago, S and I decided it was time to try out the “locals” beach. Yes, I said locals, not local, because everyone HAD to inform us we would come in contact with the locals if we went here. Unfortunately, because of the neighborhood we live in many people tend to thumb their noses at anything that isn’t touristy. Yes, I am talking about Dominicans, themselves. Money here really encourages a “them vs. us” mentality between the classes, it’s pretty upsetting.

Anyway, we grew tired of seeing great pictures and not having anyone to take us, and it suddenly struck me that this is NOT our first rodeo. We have absolutely travelled in the past to foreign places not knowing the language, so who were we waiting for? We picked up this past Saturday and just went. Boy, were we happy we did 🙂

First, we decided to take Uber, an app that works extremely well in major cities, but has not made it all over the country yet. It took 3 minutes to get someone to pick us up at our house and drive us. Because of the amount of traffic, a 20 minute drive became 40. We paid USD $24.00 to get there which really isn’t bad for the amount of time we spent. Local transportation is certainly an option but we left pretty early in the morning and felt as though we wanted to spend the money to have a private ride. You can make the trip on a local bus for USD$ 4.00 if you wanted to. We have used the public transportation before and laughed our heads off, it was a great experience. That is neither here nor there, so back to the topic at hand.

We were given advice that the best place to lay our towels would be at Bocana Beach Club and Restaurant. It really is more of a restaurant than anything else and welcomes all people. We got dropped off at a dead end, made our way to the restaurant and walked up to this:

 

I actually got teary-eyed by the view. We sat at a table a couple feet from the water and began our day!

Are there vendors who will try to sell you anything from food (even though you’re at a restaurant) to massages to phone cases? Yes. But it is not nearly as annoying as people claim. If you politely say “No, gracias” that is the end of the conversation. There is no pressure, no pushiness, and who the hell cares about someone making an honest buck when you are looking at that view? The place was practically empty the entire day and it was the first time I actually felt like I was in the Caribbean! From the locals to the music, the innate joy of the islands filled my heart and lifted my spirits right into the salty sweet air. We had the sweetest waiter of all time, Joserito, who watched our bags so S and I could swim together. People were so dedicated to making this a “safe space” for tourists that we had no fear for losing our belongings or being ripped off. The vendors all have badges and pay money for a permit to sell. I am still way too nervous to oblige but you can get full massages and pedicures on the beach for less than USD$ 10! Where does that happen??

My favorite part of the day was when the thunderstorm rolled in. We took some great pictures and then were brought inside the restaurant under the pavilion to eat. Look how GORGEOUS this storm was on its way in!

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Bocana is an awesome restaurant. Even indoors, you are right on the beach. The wait staff is incredible and the locals are definitely the best part. I felt like I was in paradise. Drinks and food are so reasonably priced, we paid less than we did for dinner in the capital. And if you know us at all, you know WE ATE. Eight drinks, 2 meals, and 2 appetizers cost us USD$80. Expensive? Look what we got:

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Yep, that is fresh-caught seafood and delicious tostones. Not pictured: drinks because I don’t post that kind of thing and calamari because we ate it WAY too quickly lol.

There were several schools there that brought students to do trash clean-up service projects. It was so fun to see students from around the city who didn’t all look like mine. At the end of their project they were all allowed to jump in the water and play, it was so sweet!

Interesting fact!

I have no understanding of how this works or what it is, but women with light or white skin tones often have reactions to the citrus in drinks and food here over time. So as you can imagine, having spent the whole day here I got my first reaction. These rashes occur primarily on the stomach and ribs. I had to change the coloring of this picture to exaggerate where the rash was to make it visible on the computer. For some reason I couldn’t get it with my camera in the lighting we were in. So again, my stomach was NOT this red, but I exaggerated the coloring so you could see where the rash showed up. Look at the dark coloring. It’s a lot! It went away after a couple of hours though.

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Overall, we had a fantastic time. We loved interacting with the local people, making observations about the lifestyles and culture of the non-Westernized, and obviously eating. We have since made a vow to go to the beach at least twice a month for the rest of our time here. It is a small sacrifice for this walking on air feeling that lasts the rest of the week 🙂

We headed to Samana this past weekend which is easily the most beautiful place on this planet. I can’t count the number of times I lost my breath looking at the expanse of the water against the backdrop of mountains. If you are okay with spending a fraction of what you spend at the all-inclusives of Punta Cana and can read an English menu, you will never go back to Punta Cana again. Stay tuned for that post!

Despite how incredible our weekends have felt, there is absolutely a piece of us missing without the fall, football season, and crisp smell of the Jersey air. You have no idea how many moments a day I can almost taste home, and how many times my heart has dropped into my stomach remembering how far away I really am. Until next time, thank you for reading!

xo SBV

 

Los Tres Ojos

Los Tres Ojos or “three eyes” park was like stepping into another world. A world where you felt as though dinosaurs would step out of the untouched rainforest into the cold, cavernous lakes that run throughout the park . Tres Ojos is a nature preserve that is home to three beautiful caves with clear blue water, miles of park land, a small colmado and surprises all over the place! Entrance is 100 pesos which is equivalent to about USD$ 2.00. It is a little more for a tour guide, but a guide isn’t really necessary to enjoy the scenery. We went with one of our good friends, Cindy, an American teacher from Tennessee who had previously taught in Morocco. She is no stranger to adventure and was such a fun travel companion! Check out some of the pictures 🙂


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While the water in the caves was cold, the air was brutally hot and the humidity clung to our chests like a vice. Is that dramatic? It is absolutely necessary because it is THAT hot. We walked up and down these old, slick stairs (a lawsuit waiting to happen?) and each time the walkway or cave opened up to one of the lakes, it was like we were seeing it for the first time again. Each one was more beautiful than the last. One of them was called “El Lago de las Damas” or Lake of the Ladies because that is where Taino (native) women would bathe their children. That one is below:

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Turns out, there are actually four lakes, but one is not considered part of the “three eyes” because it is open rather than enclosed by a cave. In order to get there we had to pay 25 pesos (roundtrip about 70 cents USD$) to get on a sort of raft and pulled through an incredibly dark cave lit only by small spot lights.

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Then, we walked along a dark path gripping the hand rails so not to slip. Bats hung from the top of the cave– an extremely eerie ambiance. As we approached the “light at the end of the tunnel”, literally, we could not believe our eyes as the scenery opened up to the most beautiful, untouched landscape I’ve ever seen.

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One of the original Tarzan movies was, in fact, filmed here. And as it turns out, Steven Spielberg scouted this very park as a possible location for the original Jurassic Park movies.

This place was ridiculously inexpensive, beautiful, and mysterious. After getting back to the park we got some cold water at the colmado and hiked the trails around the rest of the park. If you ever find yourself in Santo Domingo with USD$3.00 to spare, this is not to be missed. The money goes to the upkeep of the park and educational programs to the public about preservation.

Thanks for following along 🙂

xo-SBV

Letters Home

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So I started a blog, and it feels a little silly. I enjoyed blogging about South Africa very much and it also helped me work through a lot of the culture and social shock.  I am hoping to be able to use this as a platform for sharing experiences, conversations, and reflecting on my social, economic, and cultural observations of this beautiful island that I get to call home for the time being. I am teaching Geography and World History (my favorites!) at an international school in Santo Domingo.

This summer was both beautiful and extremely difficult. From the moment school ended in June, Steven and I spend every waking moment planning: our wedding, our move out of our apartment, our move to another country, the logistics of how to get our animals overseas, how to get a work visa in the LITTLE time we were given, our trip to Tunisia to see my family, and how the hell we were going to keep sane through the whole process. Well, we got married, moved, travelled, got our animals overseas, and are now living happily in the Dominican Republic as husband and wife. In another life, I may have done this summer differently because with so much on my plate, I feel like I missed a lot. I feel like I wasn’t as present as I would have liked. However, nothing compares to how full my heart has been (and wildly lost my brain has been) discovering a new country, language, and pieces of myself alongside my husband! I’m as present as ever.

So, without further ado, here are my postcards to Jersey. By the way, I’ll never actually send a post card from here because the mailing system would cost me USD$ 50 to get it to NJ! More on that in another post 🙂

xo-SBV